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Learn the importance of UVB light for your reptiles and the right reptile lights for your pet’s habitat.
Updated on November 13th, 2025
When it comes to reptile habitats, one of the most essential elements to creating a happy home for your pet is including the appropriate type of lighting. Zoo Med helps outline which lights are right for your pet.
Updated on November 13th, 2025
Read these guidelines about handling reptiles to provide a safe and fun environment for your pet, friends and family.
Updated on November 13th, 2025
Whether you temporarily lose access to AC or are experiencing unexpected temperature changes, you can use these tips to keep your reptiles happy and healthy.
Updated on November 13th, 2025
Learn how to take care of Green Tree Frog, recommended diet and tank setup. Find the right food, supplies and equipment at your neighborhood Petco.
Updated on November 13th, 2025
You would need to use an excessive amount in order to "overdose" most reptiles or amphibians. As long as you follow label directions, you should be fine. ReptiSafe is an excellent product. (This is my own opinion which comes from personal use)
Updated on August 12th, 2025
Ideally, the UVB light source should run the entire length of the tank. A thermometer/hygrometer should be on each end of the tank to confirm cool and warm sides. Use a digital thermometer to verify temps. Those little ones you have can be inaccurate. Provide a hide on both sides as well. Personally, I would remove the fake grass as it has the potential to cause eye injuries. Your tank looks good otherwise.
Updated on August 12th, 2025
It does appear to be of the takydromus species. These grass lizards are common and fairly easy to keep. Being adept climbers, more vertical space should be offered in an enclosure. Branches and vines can be placed for climbing. Bring reptiles, they need an external heat source and UVB lighting. Daytime temps can range from 24 C to 30 C (75-85 F). Provide a basking spot of around 35 C to 38 C (95-100 F) using a heat lamp. Aim for 70-80% humidity. Provide a shallow bowl for water. Mist the cage daily. Feed appropriately sized prey, no bigger than the space between the eyes, that have been gutload for 24 hours prior to offering. This will maximize nutritional value. Crickets, mealworms, dubia roaches, waxworms or wingless fruit flies can all be offered. Dust prey with a calcium supplement and a multivitamin supplement several times weekly. Ideally, the wound should be addressed by a veterinarian experienced in treating reptiles. You can clean it with dilute Betadine or chlorhexidine
Updated on August 12th, 2025
Hi, For heat you could do a number of things e.g. place any incandenscent bulb above him, place other types of heaters near the tank etc. Please make sure that the temperature is not too high. As for food, this is more of a problem. If he's used to eating crickets it would be difficult to switch him at once to something else. I assume meal worms or otjer insects are also unavailable? You could very temporarily try some soft cat food but it may not work.
Updated on August 12th, 2025
Red eared sliders are omnivorous. The amounts of plant matter and animal protein depend on age. Adults will eat more plant matter and less protein. The reverse is true for juveniles. Commercial turtle pellets, feeder fish, nightcrawlers and fresh greens and vegetables should all be a part of the diet. Tap water can be used, however it should be treated first to remove chlorine or chloramines. These chemicals are toxic to turtles and fish. Use an appropriate water conditioner such as Prime, AmQuel Plus or NovAqua. Test the water first before adding your turtles to confirm adequate water quality. You will need a filter to keep it clean and a heater to keep it warm. Sliders do best in water that is between 76 F and 85 F. You can read more specifics about care here: http://www.anapsid.org/reslider.html
Updated on August 12th, 2025