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- Health & Wellbeing
my gf caught this lizard in Jeju, South Korea; we think it's of the Takydromus family; she is caring for him because she's worried about his injury - she has ordered mealworms for him to eat--any other recommendations? - he has had one of his hi
It does appear to be of the takydromus species. These grass lizards are common and fairly easy to keep. Being adept climbers, more vertical space should be offered in an enclosure. Branches and vines can be placed for climbing. Bring reptiles, they need an external heat source and UVB lighting. Daytime temps can range from 24 C to 30 C (75-85 F). Provide a basking spot of around 35 C to 38 C (95-100 F) using a heat lamp. Aim for 70-80% humidity. Provide a shallow bowl for water. Mist the cage daily. Feed appropriately sized prey, no bigger than the space between the eyes, that have been gutload for 24 hours prior to offering. This will maximize nutritional value. Crickets, mealworms, dubia roaches, waxworms or wingless fruit flies can all be offered. Dust prey with a calcium supplement and a multivitamin supplement several times weekly. Ideally, the wound should be addressed by a veterinarian experienced in treating reptiles. You can clean it with dilute Betadine or chlorhexidine
Updated on August 12th, 2025
- Health & Wellbeing
I just want to know if my tank looks ok and if I might need anything else. P.S. the temperature isn't as high because I just connected the lights because I was cleaning the tank. The grass is fake btw
Ideally, the UVB light source should run the entire length of the tank. A thermometer/hygrometer should be on each end of the tank to confirm cool and warm sides. Use a digital thermometer to verify temps. Those little ones you have can be inaccurate. Provide a hide on both sides as well. Personally, I would remove the fake grass as it has the potential to cause eye injuries. Your tank looks good otherwise.
Updated on August 12th, 2025
- New Pet
I rescued (was abandoned to die) a turtle (or tortoise) about a month ago. I would like to have her (or him) checked and to get some guidance to learn how to take care of properly. Does Pecto has Vets that are reptiles specialists?
A better option would be to use the link below to find a veterinarian experienced in treating reptiles. https://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661 In the meantime, change out the rocks for something "softer", such as a soil/most mix. Rocks can cause tiny scrapes on the shell which can introduce infection. Use a thermometer in the basking spot to make sure temps don't get too high. A thermometer on the other end would be recommended to make sure temps aren't too low. Offer a commercial pelleted diet along with fresh greens and vegetables.
Updated on August 12th, 2025
- Health & Wellbeing
Hello! Is it a MUST to gut load my mealworms? ALso, do I HAVE to dust them in calsium if I'm providing the calcium in the crested gecko diet? One last thing: are mealworms or crickets better for my crestie? Thanks so much for all your help!
It is always recommended to gut load all prey to maximize nutritional value. Crickets, mealworms and other prey typically arrive from suppliers with a piece of fruit or gel for moisture and cardboard or simple oats for food. When you get them home, offer a high quality baby cereal mix, tropical fish flakes and fresh greens and veggies. The nutrition they receive will then be passed on to Rio. Crickets are more nutritious than mealworms, especially adequately gut loaded crickets. Less chitin as well unless they are freshly molted mealworms. If you feed a diet such as Repashy, Rio shouldn't need additional calcium unless he has a deficiency. This would need to be diagnosed by your herp veterinarian. Since you feed other foods as well, he may not be getting enough calcium, so dusting any live prey would be recommended.
Updated on August 12th, 2025
- Health & Wellbeing
Is my set up for my bearded dragon good? (See attachment)
Thanks for your question about Smaug, and thanks for the photo as well! I think that you have a good start to your set up, and that we can tweak a few items. First, your lighting situation appears adequate - I see a UVB light (please change this bulb every 4-6 months), a basking light, and a ceramic heat bulb. I would ensure that your temperatures are appropriate for this species, and that you are monitoring them using digital thermometers (I think that you see both a digital and analog thermometers currently) at the level of Smaug. Analog thermometers are inaccurate, so I don't recommend using them (also, they are high up on the sides of the enclosure, so they wouldn't be giving an accurate temperature read for Smaug). For the cage furniture that you have, I like that you have places for Smaug to climb and hide. However, I would recommend having a hide on both the warm side of the enclosure and the cool side so that Smaug has choices. Same for the climbing structures. I may have misse
Updated on August 12th, 2025
